Sunday, August 16, 2009

As close to organic as possible

I've been working with honey bees for a short time, and all of my hives are completely chemical-free. I use essential oils such as wintergreen, tea tree, and patchouli oil, or minerals like sassolite and salt to treat honey bee diseases, parasites, and pests. That said, I understand the essential oils I'm using are refined substances... but I like those far better than chemicals which have been specifically manufactured as medicine or poisons. I can't control where my bees will forage, but I can control what I deliberately put in a hive. I use store bought 4.9mm foundation in brood areas, and home made wax for the honey supers, which is then free drawn by the bees to whatever size honeycomb they prefer, in all natural beeswax. I'm happy to teach people to use the techniques I use. For example, my bees are fairly calm, and I work my hives wearing no protection. For the bigger jobs, I'll use a little smoke. I'm also happy to sell my excess queens to local area beekeepers, so they may enjoy a more relaxed hive management experience.

Sunday, August 9, 2009

Installing a package of honeybees



Packages of honey bees on my counter at home.







New equipment ready to go.







Out in the field, on location.







A closer view of the bees.







NOTE - This ribbon holds the queen cage –
DO NOT let this fall into the box,
or YOU will have to reach in to get it!







A shot of 1:2 sugar water so the bees won’t fly.







My applicator is a water bottle with 2 small holes in the cap.







A second or two through each side is plenty.







A sharp bump and everyone’s on the bottom.







Ready with the cover as the sugar water can comes out…







…and almost everyone stays in the box.







Syrup will leak from the can, so turn it over.







Place it on the cover as a weight.







Now, hold the ribbon as you remove the staple...







If the queen cage falls, you’ll have to reach in there!







The queen cage is out…







The cover goes back on.







Here’s the queen and a few of her friends.







A closer view shows the queen candy.







I use a staple to pry the cork from the candy end.







The bees should reach the queen in a day or two…







…if not, you’ll free the queen in another day or so.







Notice the frames are pushed to the sides.







The queen goes right in the middle.







I’ll wedge a stick on one side for tension.







Our queen, secure at home.







Now a couple of sticks to hold the sugar water.







Invert the can, and place it in the middle.







It may drip, so don’t put it over the queen cage.






The second box will make a clever funnel.







Now we’re ready to add the bees.







Invert the box over the new hive…







…and pour.







This requires a little shaking…







They’ll hang on to the cage.







Tip to one end and shake…







Then back the other way…







…until you get as many as possible.







They want to go in, but they need some help.







Place the box near the entrance…







Whoever’s left will fly home.







The cover goes on, and we’re done here.